Documentary Film ** Gipsy Kings ** Richard Marx ** He’s Just Not That into You** Ghandi** Cabbies ** Valentine’s Day ** Cosmos ** Rick accident ** Paying off police** Skype** Friends ** Mumbai Attacks ** Tetanus shot
This last week (ok, now it has been almost 10 days) since I got back to Mumbai from my mostly Rajasthan trip in Northern India has gone by in a flash (much like an Indian auto rickshaw or cab that encounters any stretch of open road).
My first full day back from Delhi came with lots of unexpected delights. In the evening, Sunitha, Ashwyn and I decided to walk on the beach to a Veg-Only fast food joint; along the way, we note that there was a huge stage set up on a property bordering the beach (earlier I had seen a wedding processional go past the front of the house) with a band playing that Ashwyn thought sounded eerily similar to the Gipsy Kings. We proceeded to dinner nonetheless, where along the way I saw not just one, but three other weddings in progress (wedding season is, and this is no understatement, in full swing here). After a delicious meal of dosas and pana puri (a delicious new treat for me, pix here) and yes, my first nachos since leaving the states, we walked back on the beach toward the huge music stage and realized that it was indeed music of the Gipsy Kings. Not a bad gig to get a free Gipsy Kings concert while dancing on the beach under 1000s of stars with great friends (ignore the fact we weren't actually inside the wedding reception). I couldn’t have asked for a nicer welcome back to Bombay, though I did regret not grabbing my camera. (I did get a pic of the groom on a horse earlier in the day).
Saturday brought a Girl’s Day Out full of "Pfaffing Around" (which is currently leading the list as my Favorite India Saying). Basically, Pfaffing Around means having fun, wasting time, enjoying one’s self--I’ll let you put your own operational definition spin on it. Sunitha and my pfaffing included driving into the city and visiting a handmade paper store that had tons of unbelievable products at unbeatable prices. We also went to Elco Market in Bandra neighborhood that had more veg-only fast food (and more pani puri) and of course, Singal Scoop Exotic Ice Cream.
We also hit upon the Kala Ghoda Festival, which is an annual arts festival in Mumbai. There were some beautiful displays, and for anyone who has spent any time in India, you know how precious having Chai is--part of the daily fiber of life. Thus, for your viewing pleasure, a display of "Chai’na Town" from the Kala Ghoda Fest.
As I mentioned early on in my trip, Sunitha is a lecturer at Sophia Polytechnic College in the Social Communications Media program, a one-year post-undergrad intensive media studies program that enrolls about 40 women annually. We happened to run into one of her former students, who is a photojournalist for The Times of India, when we were at the Kala Ghoda Fest. This turned out to be an opportunity to view two of her photos as well as several other award winning photographs of the Mumbai terrorist attacks that began on November 26. The photos were amazing and a few artists’ statements also hung there. I haven’t written about the influence the attacks had on my decision to come to India because, though it was an area of concern, I had wanted to come before the attacks and still wanted to come after. The opportunity, though, to view the images and read the statements of people that were there, living it and covering it, was incredibly moving and something I will not forget.
Speaking of press coverage here, the papers, especially, are something to behold. Apparently sensational news is a welcome, normal, and expected thing here. Take for example, coverage of Valentine’s Day in India. Headlines screamed that the police force would be On Full Alert in Mumbai (which in fact, it was) because of fear that those who view themselves as the Moral Brigade would be out and about trying to rain on the parade of couples showing their affection. Despite the Kama Sutra deriving from here, India is a very conservative country, especially regarding PDA’s (maybe due to that long British occupancy). Also recently there were attacks on women drinking in bars in southern India, but with an awesome protest in reply involving pink knickers. So as absurd as it may sound, public affection is indeed, an area of concern here.
Such serious notions aside, I am sure you all are curious for me to return to my Pfaffing Around. I went to The Yoga Institute on Sunday which was founded in 1918. It consisted of first a large lecture and then a small yoga class that would likely be mild by some people’s standards, but felt very relaxing to me. In contrast, I later in the day visited a restaurant called BBQ Nation, where you keep your grilled kabobs warm on a grill on the table and cosmos are included in the lunch cost. It was fantastic.
Also this week I went to a documentary film workshop regarding a website that houses archival film footage from many documentary filmmakers in India. Some filmmakers spoke about their work, about the value of the website (pad.ma) and a few cultural studies folks presented on some of their film making. It took me back to grad school days, and I may have the opportunity to do some work while here with the website, so it was a good opportunity for me. A few days later I went to see a documentary about transgendered people living in India at a women's university nearby where I am staying; but it was 2 ½ hours long so the woman who told me about it (with the potential work for me) and I left after an hour to head for a coffee shop (called Out of the Blue--not sure if it is a Debbi Gibson reference or not) where I, again, was privy to hearing Richard Marx.
As I was leaving, I witnessed my second auto rickshaw accident since arriving here (the first was my first week here and was Rick on SUV; this one was Rick on Rick). Traffic in India, as I have mentioned is Insane. What is amusing though, is that they slammed into each other, get out, yell for a few minutes, then both get back in and drive away. If any of you have experienced traffic here, you will know what I mean; it's kind of the best course of action.
Film is everywhere in this city and an oft subject of conversation, and this week met with my first U.S. movie since my arrival. I unexpectedly happened upon “He’s Just NOT That Into You” on Wednesday and had a joyous (and sometimes tearful) time watching it, only wishing that some of the Winos were there with me to laugh and cry together. (I am, yes, a total sap).
I also was able to add to my Indian Wardrobe this week. So in addition to my collection of hippie skirts, I now have four kurtas made by and organization called Self-Employment Women’s Association. They are not based in Mumbai but have sales here occasionally. The beauty of the clothes was something to behold, as they are all handmade.
This week also brought the first time I was able to speak to--and see--anyone from back in the states! I Skyped with my friends Libby and Peeps and also spoke to my parents for the first time on the phone since I arrived. It was a great reconnect with all of them (if any of you reading care to Skype it up with me, just holla).
Decisions have also been made, after some mulling over, to continue to do some travel outside of Mumbai. Right now my next trip will be in less than three weeks, when I will fly to Melbourne, Australia to visit my Colorado friends Sarah and Gareth. There is also a food and wine fest there then, and S&G have brewed their own beer so I look forward to friends, fun, koala bears, kangaroos, drinks, and maybe some Crocodile Dundee sightings. I also booked a trip to tour Southern India; Sunitha grew up there, as did my friends Nanu and Poornima, and I have heard from Maria and others that is much different than the north. That will happen in the first 2 weeks of April. In between the Land Down Under and Southern India, Jessie, my good friend from Denver, is coming to visit and we are currently planning our Tall White Women Invasion of India. Indian men, beware.
Speaking of friends, before I left, at the "Dress Like Leah" Going Away Party, there was an “Anti-Sad Pants” jar (that I think was Laura’s idea), where my friends could leave me happy notes when I started missing home. I have, until this week, abstained from reaching into the Ziploc that I brought the notes in and reading them. Thus far, I have only read one (thank you Kristin and your reference to garlic Triscuits! I could almost taste them!) I also thought of Kentucky Bridget, who told me before I left that when she traveled for an extended period of time that Week 6 was when it got harder, or at least, a bit more lonesome. Though it may seem hard to imagine in a city of 16-20 million people, a pang of loneliness did hit me this week, but luckily, I still have several notes to read to tide me over, and it quickly passed.
Finally, I spent yesterday (Friday) in town, first chatting with Amber, a fellow U.S. citizen who does film editing; we are planning a get together before she leaves for Nepal in March and I will perhaps visit her there, too. I then proceeded to the Mani Bhavan, a small Gandhi museum which is actually a house where he spent significant time at while in Mumbai. Very different than the Gandhi Smriti in Delhi, it was still powerful though quaint. To be in the midst of where great minds spent their time always has a powerful effect, and though the Smriti in Delhi made me feel more at peace, I felt a connection to this small home in Mumbai where Gandhi time as well.
Speaking of connections, the remainder of my day included meeting two new friends. The first was Dipti, a woman my age, is my friend Angie’s cousin’s husband’s childhood friend (I kid you not). We had a delightful lunch (her ordering; always smart to let people here order for me, I have not been lead astray!) and will likely meet up again. She has her own clothing business and it was really nice to meet someone else my age.
After that, I first ventured upon a Broadband Surfing store which was a pleasant surprise, and then had cappuccino with Guarav, a creative type who studied film in the U.S. and Prague and works in the film industry here. He is also one of the lead Twitter posters in Mumbai (this connection thanks to Abby!) It’s been really nice to meet up with a few more people and make in-person connections.
My day wrapped up with Sunitha and I taking one of her student’s to get a tetanus shot (she had cut her foot on a rusty stair), then we had to pay off a cop because of illegally backing up on a road when we missed our lane (it was pretty awesome), and then I caught a cab back up to Juhu (with Sunitha’s help hailing it and translating for me). The cabbie must have been The Oldest Cabbie in Mumbai with The Oldest Cab. However, he was very sweet, and even gave me front door service while I pointed the last 4 turns out to him; an hour and 15 minute ride for only $3 U.S.
There is so much more I could say, but let’s leave it at this for now, which is probably already too much. Finally, a few random asides:
*I have heard more Bryan Adams in India the last month and a half then I have since I used to listen to “Summer of ‘69” on repeat in Jr. High.
*Things like incessant honking, dodging piles of crap, and tons of stray dogs are starting to be expected and not phase me (OK, the dogs still phase me).
*I love the fact that a hot-pink, decked out four door jalopy of a car can pull up next to me on the road and I don’t even think twice about it. After all, people in India LOVE their flair, more even, than me.
Cardboard Cut-Out of Gandhi
