You don't get love, you give it

When I was traveling last year, I read a lot of books.

One of those books was "Shantaram" by Gregory David Roberts. It's a mammoth book, a colossal undertaking of 944 pages that I braved largely because it was based in my newly-adopted hometown of Mumbai (Bombay), India. Like the author, I too had relocated there, though admittedly on much tamer circumstances. I bought the book on the second day of a 9 day trek in Nepal (after realizing Twilight #2 was nowhere to be found). I still shoulder some guilt for having our 16-year old porter Norbu carry it all those miles.

There's a line in the book, where Roberts ends one of the chapters by writing "You don't get love, you give it." At the time, I wrote it off for a cliche statement. But it has stuck with me since that quiet day in May when I read it, and I find myself lately reflecting back on one of the most amazing years of my life, and realizing just how true it is.

I've been fortunate enough to meet people throughout this year, and have experiences, that I would never have had the courage to even attempt in the first place without the support of so many family and friends. I've found myself thinking a lot about giving versus getting love, as I have been lucky enough to be the recipient of so much love, often when I didn't even deserve it.

Selflessly and completely, people have seriously shown me the love this year. And I keep wondering if I've done the same in return.

Several people have asked me what the highlights were of my time abroad, and one of the first things that comes to mind is my experience teaching in Bombay. The children I taught there are amazing, and as much as I love them, I feel like they gave me so much more love, unconditionally and without question, even while having so little, that it wasn't nearly a fair trade (though I did teach them what "totally awesome" meant, so I tried to show my appreciation on some level).

My entire adventure would not have been possible without my friend Sunitha and her husband Ashwyn who welcomed me not as a guest in their home, but as part of their family. I'm yet to figure out a proper repayment for their kindness, generosity, and sharing of their wealth of knowledge about Bombay (specifically its fine foods, both at home and eating out!) To have that time to spend with Sunitha again was priceless; I hope someday I will have a home as awesome as theirs to host them in (and maybe even on a beach, too!) and try and live up to the high bar that is Indian hospitality.

I'm not sure I ever explained how much it meant to me that friends and family came to visit me--Jessie, Bryan, and Randy--and experience the craziness of India firsthand, but the random motorcycle rides in the dark, the beers for breakfast, and the photo collages of food in Nepal and India will not soon be forgotten. For those friends I traveled with outside of India--Libby, Abdullah, Patti, Sarah and Gareth--the nights out in Mykonos, the kufte in Istanbul, the brewery tours in Ireland/Holland, the MeatBowl in Melbourne all still bring a smile to my face.

The list goes on of all the people who have given me so much love: the D-town winos, who got me bacon when I was fresh off the plane back in Denver in August; Annie K, not only for keeping my car but always being there to listen to all my random boy stories; Carolyn for watching my plants and being a shoulder to lean on; my parents for supporting me even when they think I'm crazy (which, I think is a majority of the time); Maria for encouraging me not to get a real job and to travel more; Jeffy Peeps for being my favorite Peoples; Joe for sending me Newsweeks and Economists in the mail; Nanu for telling me that no one would judge me if I decided I hated India and decided to go home early; Phil for hooking us up with Pemba Sherpa in Nepal; and for everyone that sent me a message while I was gone, that I've seen since I've gotten back over coffee, whiskeys, lunches or beers; who read my blog and (hopefully) enjoyed it; it's been amazing for me to have you all along for the ride the last year with me, through the ups and downs, the rik-shaws and the cows, the dance parties and the sunrises.

I come back to the statement again; with all this love I'm getting, is it true that you don't really get it, but give it?

And then, January 8th marked one year since I departed Denver and flew to Mumbai, unsure of what life held for me but extremely excited, apprehensive, and happy. Now I find myself a few days into the new year, feeling similar, but for so many different reasons. My home is again in Denver, though I haven't had my own "home" yet, as I have been so lucky to have friends like Todd, Emily, Angelique, and Patti that have let me lean on them and literally put a roof over my head. For their graciousness, I am ever grateful. I've reconnected with old friends and met new ones, and set down temporary roots with a new job. My wanderlust hasn't waned, but for right now, I am trying to keep it in check (though trips to South Dakota, Minneapolis, Iowa, and soon Phoenix worked themselves into my itinerary quickly in the nearly five months since I've been back).

When I was in India, my friend Jim and I in Denver wrote snail mail letters back and forth (which were a guarantee to wipe out any inkling of homesickness each time I got one). In one of those letters in February, I remember writing him about how happy I was at that moment, being in India, floundering but exploring, pushing my boundaries, encompassed by novelty and sensory overload and cows and garbage and color. I'm pretty sure the next day I was probably cursing India and all its headaches and shortcomings and lack of infrastructure. But at that moment, as I wrote to my good buddy, my perspective wasn't tainted. It was filled with love of my situation, my experience, my adventure. I was letting the love in, and giving it back.

The journey I set out on last year may have come full circle, as a new one is just beginning. And for that I am extraordinarily grateful. Because of all the things I learned, one of the most important was to not be afraid to give love. I've learned that if you do give it, you may find yourself lucky enough to get it, too. And I hope, out of all the books I've read over the years, I carry that message I came across in Shantaram with me in all my adventures yet to come.

Touring Athens

ATHENS June 21 - 24, 2009

We welcomed Athens with open arms, and the mood was reciprocated. After getting a cab with relative ease to our hotel, we were able to navigate the public transit (with assitance from our hotel desk clerk) to an area not far from the hotel where we had an amazing dinner with, as expected, excellent wine. We also realized that the 80s style is back in a big way, as evidenced from the hot pink tights this young woman was sporting.

Having been pretty spent from ferry-traveling, we retired early that night, and admittedly, did not figure out how to pay for the use of the bus until the next day.

On Monday (the 22nd) we tried without success to enter the new Acropolis Museum. Though it was officially open to the public, we needed advance Internet reservations, which we didn't have. Bummed but determined to enjoy the beautiful day, we headed over to the ancient Acropolis (which is the name of the ancient Greek city) to see the Parthenon (which is the temple).

We didn't take a guided tour of the Parthenon, but highlights were the Dionysus Theatre and the Herod Atticus Theature. I won't go into a lot of the history here, but instead will let some of the pix speak for themselves.

Goddesses I loved this.

Parthenon view.

Senor felt at home here.

Having our trusty guidebook, we tried to find the Temple of Zeus, but first wandered up a small trail to the Philopappou Monument. I cannot remember what greatness Philoppaou is known for, but the view of the Parthenon from his monument was pretty grand.

After trying, in vain, to get an employee at the Acropolis to guide us to Zeus' Temple, we wandered around in other areas known for their spectacular ruins and called the Ancient Agora (what we thought was Zeus' Temple most of the day from far away views). This was the heart of ancient Athens for years and years and where political gatherings, debate, elections, theatre, athletics, religious occasions, and trading took place. However, it was repeatedly plundered and destroyed over the years, and it was last excavated in the 19th century with more effort going into it beginning in 1931. Having a great lunch after leaving the Ancient Agora, complete with Mythos Beer, we continued our journey until we finally came upon yes, you guessed it, ZEUS' Temple!

Lib holla-ing at Zeus' Temple!

It wasn't nearly as rad as we had hoped, but it still was pretty great, and we also got to see Hadrian's Arch. From their we wandered in the beautiful National Gardens where we came upon some delightful old men playing chess and a wild turtle. Soon, we came to a road that we discovered was in front of the President's residence, and just as the Changing of the Guard was taking place. A small group of men were filming some sort of TV show of the process, but we never did figure out what that was about. Being a huge nerd, I needed a photo with the guard. I am pretty sure he hated me, and all others like me who pose for such photos.

After my photo opp, we made it to the original Olympic Stadium that was re-used in recent years.

By now though, it was time for happy hour where we made it to a delightfully decorated watering hole. After our drink though, I hit the wall, and wanted nothing more to rest up for the night, and we soon ventured back to the hotel.

With only two days left in Athens (and the last day of holiday for Lib) we took the day fairly easy, doing some shopping and of course sampling more great food. The highlight was an open-air concert at the Herodeion at the Acropolis which featured a classical music concert by Thanos Mikroutsikos and was part of the Athens & Epidaurus Festival. We did end up leaving before it was over, partly due to the fact we had been there for three hours and partly because we had our fill of entertainment by the extremely enthusiastic woman in front of us who was overprotective of her seat cushion and had a little too much love for Thanos.

It was sad to send Lib off in her taxi to the airport, but I was so happy to have spent the time traveling together and took such great memories away from our trip! I was also lucky enough to get into the Acropolis Museum my last day in Athens, and it was very impressive, featuring tons of Greek sculpture. Including this Half-Faced Man.

Athens was a great city, but in comparison to Istanbul it didn't hold quite the same allure to me. I did wish we would have had time to go to Marathon though, the city where Pheidippides, the man who was said to have run the entire distance from Marathon to Athens to declare that the Athenians had been victorious over the Persians in the Battle of Marathon, started his fateful journey (he died of exhaustion after relaying his message of victory). I was thinking, maybe it would make me faster in the half-marathon I had coming up in a few days.

The Turkey/Greece leg of my adventure was certainly full of surprises, happy memories, and tons of fun. All the same I was very excited to be heading to England to meet two friends I had met on my southern India tour and oh yes, run a half-marathon.

Onto England!

Santorini, its sunsets and Captain Marcos

June 18th-June 20th, 2009

Whereas Mykonos was fun and beautiful, Santorini was beautiful, beautiful, beautiful. Arriving at the port, you are surrounded by rock face that seemingly shoots straight up--and sure enough, soon enough that is what you drive up to get to your hotel.

A popular spot for couples and honeymooners, it was appropriate that we crashed the party here, but it was also a welcome calm from Mykonos. More than anything for me, Santorini was marked by gorgeous sunsets and great food.

I seriously miss the feta and those Greek salads.

Santorini also has breathtaking beaches, but we didn't sunbathe on any here. We did see some that had the famous red sand though

Being rather spread out, the best way to see Santorini is again by renting a scooter or 4-wheeler. Our second 4-wheeler was just as fun as the first, and perhaps more comical as it did not have reverse so we had to push it everytime we wanted to back up.

One of my favorite stops on Santorini was Captain Marcos' restaurant. Our friend Jorgos that we had met on Mykonos used to live on Santorini and gave us the general location, and we were able to search it out. Basically, it is Captain Marcos and his wife's house, and we were the only people there, but they graciously obliged making us lunch of fresh (fried) fish, Greek salad, excellent white wine, and bread. (I think it was at this point my pants started getting much more snug).


We spent the rest of the day hitting up two wineries, spying on a cliff side wedding, and walking along a beautiful beach.


Before the day was over, we decided to drive up to Oia, the northernmost part of the island reknowned for its sunsets. Finding a poolside hotel, we sat back and enjoyed the amazing view.


The next day we joined a tour group for all day tour of Santorini, where we visited the Prophet Elias' Monastery, which is the highest point of the island and built in 1711, as well as Pygos Village.

Our tour continued with a boat ride to an active volcano that we got to hike around on for a bit, and also some hot springs that you could jump into from the boat (Libby took the plunge, I resisted based on my sub-par swimming skills).


Following a great seafood lunch of shrimp souvlaki, we boated over to again see the sunset at Oia. However, we landed at the base of the cliff, but had the option to take a donkey up the hill.

Of course, we took up that offer.

I am not sure if I have ever laughed as hard as when we rode the donkeys; the lady next to me was freaking out, and then the guy leading mine kept spanking the other donkeys. Overall, it was a high level of hilarity. However, we were a bit disappointed it did not bring us ALL The way to the top.

The evening wound down with more fun cocktails and this time, a windmill accenting our sunset.

Libby in the window giving a holla!

That night we were hungry for Mexican and despite our better judgment tried some Greek Mexican food. The guacamole was great, but the next day those choices were not quite so good. We left Santorini via ferry, with wine-filled, 4-wheeled memories and soon were to land on the mainland to see what Athens had in store for us.

Adios Turkey Hola Greek Islands

Paros & Mykonos; You only turn 30 once and have to Make the Dance
June 14 to 18th, 2009

When Libby and I talked and planned our trip, I had only one request--I wanted to go to Mykonos on my birthday. The only context I had for this was that it was a really good place to go out, they had good wine, and great beaches. Sounded good enough to me.

We left Kusadasi via Ferry early on the 14th, and with my second Twilight book in tow, had a few hour ride to the island of Samos, where we switched ferries to get to Mykonos but not before we had a delicious pizza lunch and some fried feta cheese.

It was already good to be in Greece.

With vistas like this, there is no room for complaints

Several chapters of "New Moon" (AKA Twilight Book #2) later, we arrived on the island of Paros where we were to spend one night.

Paros did not disappoint.

We stayed near the water, and leaving our guidebook behind, wandered the narrow streets and stumbled upon a beautiful, quaint church that was holding a service, and soon after came across Pebble Bar, with one of the most beautiful sunset views I had ever seen.



We enjoyed the sunset, and the wine, and on a recommendation of the owner, walked to have dinner at a small seafood restaurant that had no other customers, and thus the old man working treated us like royalty, bringing us Grappa shots for free (a Greek liquor) and leaving us very, very full. A bit too much wine and grappa later, we headed back to our hotel but not before playing some mean soccer with some teenage boys in the street with a lemon (I scored two goals).

As my 30th birthday dawned the next morning, I took advantage of the nice weather to take a short run before heading off to a delicious brunch, which consisted, among other things, a waffle covered with Nutella. I figure on my birthday, I can get away with anything.

We did a little more exploring and shopping that morning before we caught our next ferry to Mykonos, and most importantly, I bought the next Twilight book, "Eclipse". Happy Birthday to me!

Upon arrival in Mykonos, you are greeted by masses of people from surrounding hotels and hostels wanting to recruit your business. We already had a reservation, but we liked this guy:

After settling in to our place, we decided to walk into town; but it turns out our hotel was a bit "rural" and the walk took some time, but we were rewarded with beautiful scenes such as this along the way.

Having an early birthday dinner, we met an American couple from Alabama who had been coming to Mykonos for 18 years. The woman, Christine, was quite the southern diva and we were very entertained by her company, and her husband bore an uncanny resemblance to Trent Lott.

We then sauntered over to rent a four-wheeler, but not before we saw this fellow on the boardwalk:

Driving a four-wheeler was one of my favorite things we did on the islands. Not to mention that it made us laugh to know end that it was a bit tricky learning to drive it--and put gas in it. I also had some technical difficulties putting my helmet on correctly


As we headed back to our rural villa, we had a deep desire to go out that night because A) we were in Mykonos and B) it was my birthday. One small problem was transportation, because we did not want to drive our precious orange 4-wheeler if we were going to have some cocktails. Determined, at midnight we headed to the driveway, hoping against hope that in the dark, the town bus would pass and pick us up.

Just when I was succombing to the fact that maybe tonight was not our night, Maria, co-owner of the Villa, rolls up in her 15-passenger van and exclaims "Oh! You girls going to go make the dance!? Oh! I give you ride! You meet nice boys, Yes?!"

Thus, my birthday was extended into the wee hours, we met a delightful Dutch couple who shared some drinks with us, we later met some otehr friends, danced on a few tables, and completed the night at 7 a.m. with a chocolate croissant from a great small Greek bakery.

Our Dutch friends

After 4 hours of sleep, it was time to do the most important thing: Hit the beach. We 4-wheeled it to Super Paradise beach, which as you can tell, was fantastic:


After several hours on the beach, we headed back, continued trying Greek foods and loved them, and the next day headed to Paradise Beach, perhaps the most famous beach on Mykonos because of its party-time atmosphere. It was fun, but Super Paradise was preferred. Our last night in Mykonos consisted of me trying several cocktails that were no comparison to bourbon and ginger ale, and Libby becoming a fan of the Gin Fizz. Another late night, we decided Mykonos was fun for it food and its frolicking, but it was definitely time the next day to head to Santorini.