Voyage to Delhi

Delhi has been an experience thus far, especially comparing one big city to another. It’s been great fun hanging with my cousin Maria, trying out yet even more new food, and meeting the other 8 people and our guide on our two-week trek that has just begun.

Yesterday was a day of firsts--first time flying solo on an Indian domestic flight (which was delayed for many reasons, one of which was to disembark a woman who was 8 months pregnant, her husband and their toddler); first time eating at an Indian fast-food joint (sub-par, but not so bad); first time being denied entrance to a park because I had a camera; and first time taking the Metro in India. We also had more people begging us for money than normal, but that is to be expected here I guess.

Today I saw two monkeys hanging from wires; toured the Delhi Chandi Chowk area which included a huge spice market; saw the largest Mosque I think in India, ate a samosa from a local jaunt; had hot chai from a street vendor; had the chance to buy Indian fireworks (I passed); toured a Singh temple and saw the biggest pot of stirred lentils I could ever imagine; ate chocolate mousse; Senor had a big day out in Delhi; and we walked 3K to the India Gate, where around 50 high school boys for some reason decided to treat me like paparazzi and swarmed around to take pictures with me; I obliged. Again, must be the tall western white woman thing.

Tomorrow we head to Agra to see the Taj Mahal. Very much looking forward to that, though not so much the 5 a.m. wake up call.

I have much to tell from my weekend stay in Kampshet a smaller city outside of Mumbai about two hours, including riding on a speed boat, meeting a water buffalo at the back of a village home, visiting Ashywyn's dad's organic farm, and eating Chikki--homemade peanut brittle--from a town called Lonavla. But, all that may have to wait for another post.

Leah’s Day Out OR Soft Rock Reigns Supreme

On Wednesday I had my first independent adventure. Being as Mumbai has around 15 million people, few street signs, crazy traffic, and I’m staying about an hour to an hour and a half from the downtown area (depending, again, on traffic) getting around is not nearly as easy as back home.

Thus Wednesday was my first true test of independent navigation. I caught a ride from Sunitha to her college, and from there got a taxi to take me to the downtown area so I could hit up a museum.

The taxis here look like they’re British cars of the 1960s, and only the modern ones have AC. It was fun taking one, minus the times you are actually stopped at a traffic light and people are trying to sell you pirated books, movies, or magazines, or begging…I still have not got used to that. And as I am super western, they especially like to plead with me.

The museum I went to is called the Chhatrapati Shivaji Maharah Vastu Sangrahalaya, formerly known as Prince of Wales Museum of Western India. I’m really glad they changed it to something that rolls right off the tongue.

Museum had all sorts of stuff illustrating history of India; perhaps the strangest thing was a vast collection of snuff jars from the famous historical figure, Tata (I forget the full name). My favorite thing though were the hordes of school-age kids who liked to walk by me and yell “Hi!” as loud as they could. I appreciated their zest for practicing English with me.

After I had my fill of the museum and a Greek tourist offered to take my pic (see token touristy photo) I made my way to the famous Leopold’s Café, where I lunched on Kashmiri Naan (Naan with tomatoes, pineapple, and something else mixed in—I still favor garlic naan) and Paneer Tikka Masala (chunks of cottage cheese, but not like U.S. cottage cheese in the masala sauce). This is where I realized India’s affinity for Soft Rock. I was greeted by a Willie Nelson song which was a pleasant surprise (yes, the place caters to tourists) but then Willie was followed by Richard Marx “Right Here Waiting” and the Police “Every Breath You Take” and so on and so forth. (Notice in the food pic the silverware is clean--I eat with my right hand like a "proper Indian!"

I was able to successfully navigate my way back to Sunitha’s college by commandeering another cabbie. Sunitha said upon my return “This must be what it feels like to worry about your kids!”

It is strange to go from knowing everything and feeling so comfortable for so many years to being somewhere where street signs are hard to even find. I leave tomorrow for a two week trip with my cousin Maria starting in Delhi; when I return I will try and learn to read basic Marathi (the local language here in Maharashtra, the state Mumbai is in) so I can figure out what buses to take! Baby steps, baby steps.

Vamos a la playa

One of my favorite things to do so far since reaching Mumbai is go to the beach.

Now this is not the "go to the beach" in the traditional sense. Here, it's winter, just like back home, so people are not sunbathing on the beach; rather they are engaging in one of many activities. I myself usually go in the mornings each day for a run. I thought I would have pangs of longing for my dear Denver City Park back home; but jogging along the Arabian Sea is a more than adequate substitute. During the weekdays, I am accompanied by hundreds of others, mostly walking, who are out putting in time for their daily exercise.

Often in the morning there will be several sets of young men playing cricket on the beach, or football (soccer). So far I've only had to dodge 2 footballs and 3 cricket balls; then again, maybe those numbers are higher than they should be!

Occasionally I have made the trek along the beach at night. This is a completely different crowd. Men selling balloons, vendors selling food, and families having a picnic are just a few of the sights. My favorite thus far was when I wandered up to a crowd of a few hundred people, surrounding about 10 men, some with shirts on, some off. The men were chasing each around and trying to tackle each other. I thought maybe this was an Indian version of Lucha Libre wrestling, but later I found out it is a popular game played in India (I'll look up the name later). On the same stroll I saw the Tourism Police (seriously what they are called) chuck a few maybe 16 year old boys in the back of their yellow police vehicle. I'm not sure what they did, but again, a huge crowd surrounded them.

Another morning there was a small TV crew interviewing a man who could have been a movie star for all I know; but my best guess was that he was a famous runner who was planning to participate in the Mumbai Marathon that was held on Sunday.

Speaking of Sunday, that is THE day to go to the beach. Many more beachgoers all day and night. The number of cricketers exponentially increases, the volleyball net is full of young men slinging the ball about, and at night to be at Juhu Beach is the Thing to do. Completely entertaining at any rate, and beautiful. The picture I took is of a woman at sunset on the beach last week.

Once my stomach is stronger, I am totally hitting up the Hot Corn they sell on the beach! Hmmm, tasty.

Chandi Chowk to China

Hold onto your seats, folks. I met an Indian boyfriend!

Sure, he doesn't talk much, refuses to where a shirt, and is only working on growing a beard, but he has LOTS of tatts and is a really, really good listener.

Truth be told, the photo was taken in the multiplex theatre walking distance from my friends' home on Friday evening. Sunitha and I took in Opening Night of the latest big Bollywood flick, Chandi Chowk to China. It was everything you could expect--assigned seats, an intermission, those working the concessions would take your order from inside the theatre rather than us having to stand in line, and maybe the best part was that people would clap at the exciting parts and also yell out comments--which may at first sound annoying, but based on the content--mindless samurai action moves combined with cheesy comedy--it fit the bill quite nicely. The movie was in Hindi with no English subtitles, but as anyone that has viewed a Bollywood epic knows, that is not really an obstacle to understanding the plot.

Other recent fun adventures include a trip to Fab India, also walking distance from Sunitha's place, where I purchased 3 cotton shirts so I know have a bit more "Indian garb". No saris yet though--Sorry! (hahhaha, I could not resist).

Yesterday I spent the day chopping food and watching Sunitha concoct an amazing Indian meal for 10 of us last night--notice the spread. I was able to meet 7 of Sunitha's relatives during dinner, including 2 aunts and uncles and her brother Nehlu. Her sister, Deepta, flew in (she is a pilot) late last night as well, and it was a pleasure to meet her for the first time, too.

I also went to my first Hindu Temple, a Hare Krishna one nearby, which was an overwhelming and very cool experience--live music, bowing at certain parts, all the while Sunitha's brother attempting to explain to me what everything means as I nod because I can half understand him with all the noise around. This is also where the International Society for Krishna Consciousness is located. I am looking forward to visiting more temples--they are truly visually mesmerizing.

More to come--especially about some Lucha-Libre type wrestling I saw on the beach the other night! I also get to go to my first restaurant today. Chicken, I think, is on the menu!

3 cow sightings

I've seen three cows in the street thus far.


They all looked different. The first one was my tannish with horns and sauntered across a busy road, as if he owned the place. He was my favorite, and this sighting was immediately preceded by seeing a KFC motorcycle delivery man (yes, they have delivery here). The second cow I saw on Tuesday from the bus on the way to where my friend Sunitha teaches at Sophia Polytechnic School. The third was on the way back the same day, on an extremely narrow street (Please reference blurry photo taken from the car).

I was very excited to see cows in the streets, not in pastures. I predict this novelty may soon wear off.

Speaking of streets, off of the main streets everyone walking/riding bikes shares them with cars, and street signs are not everywhere here. I have yet to venture out much on my own, and am curious to see how that pans out. While my sense of direction is generally OK, I do like to rely on street signs, but I think landmarks will work well. For example, after I ran on the beach this morning I looked for The Mango Stand with Lots of Dudes (or maybe it was a coconut stand) and The Big Brown Gate. Bingo,--as soon as I saw these things, I knew to turn off the beach.

The beach is awesome. Besides one ball from a cricket game coming strangely close to me this morning, there have been no major altercations (the lad chasing the cricket ball was yelling and running at me from behind, and thus I started fake-yelling, which made him laugh and run away).

I mentioned driving here the other day. Again, I could never do it, and not just because I am not a fan of driving, and not because they drive on the other side of the road, but because it is wild and crazy and swerving every which way. I admire those who maneuver the roads successfully. Everyone uses their horns regularly; and while I am a fan of the occasional honk-honk more than most back home, it's taking a little getting used to here.

On Monday Sunitha and Ashwyn took me on a bit of a driving tour of Bombay landmarks (technically their house is in Juhu, a suburb, but it all runs together very differently than 'burbs back home. It's non-stop people, buildings, etc., so the big-city feel does not fade). We stopped at the Taj Mahal Hotel on the tour. Here is an example of one of the many extremely dorky photos that will likely continue to appear during the duration of my stay.

Motorcycles are very popular here. Drivers have to wear helmets but passengers are not required to. Note how the woman with the sari sits sideways on it. Impressive. If I ever get a ride on one, I am taking the helmet!

India Arrival and the Search for Bacon

It's been a great first few days in Mumbai (Bombay). As I sat down at the computer tonight, the sounds of loud singing from a wedding party at the Army Club across the street filled the house--it's wedding season, and I hope to crash at least one Indian wedding while I am here!

I arrived without incident just after midnight on Saturday, and despite bits of jet lag, have entirely enjoyed my experience so far! I'm living with Sunitha, my roommate from graduate school at Indiana University, and her husband Ashwyn in their beautiful home. They are fabulous hosts who have filled me full of homemade Indian food (trying to avoid any sickness we are eating at home before I try out any restaurants).

Some of you have asked about the food--it is all SO good--lots of rice, vegetables, yogurt and veggies. I've had some good Indian beer (Kingfisher), dal (which is like lentils with a soup texture), homemade spicy chutney, and flatbread called Roti, to name a few things. I have even been practicing the proper way to eat with my right hand only, sans fork and spoon (I need a bit more practice as I am still a poser right now).

We visited a few small groceries today in search of Bacon for me, but thus far came up empty-handed. We did find some ham and Chicken Bacon, but the search for REAL bacon continues. We had some sausages though on Saturday night, and Sunday morning I took a walk through the Juhu Market (Juhu is the neighborhood I am staying in--there are Bollywood stars around in the area) and saw lots of vegetable sellers, local stores, temples, and even some turtles.

There are rickshaws everywhere taking people around--they are motorized, have three wheels, are driven usually by barefoot men, and run on Petrol. There was a nationwide Petrol strike a few days ago, so I was privvy to see lines and lines and lines of them lined up to refuel Saturday once the strike was over, and got in my first Indian traffic jam--one thing I know, I could never drive here.

I took a walk along the Arabian Sea with Sunitha and Ashwyn on Saturday evening as they live a few short blocks walk from the beach; to my surprise and delight I saw an Indian man wearing a Black Hills South Dakota t-shirt. SD, represent! I also saw a young man with a dancing monkey. I was really excited about that.

The weather has been delightful, and I was able to see a great view of the sea and city from the roof of my friends' building. Things are quite different here, but very exciting and fun--though it may take me a bit more getting used to being stared at for being a tall, white, western woman.